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My Maine TR

Discussion in 'Non-Vegas Trip Reports' started by westie, Jul 26, 2015.

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  1. westie

    westie VIP Whale

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Kensington, CT
    Trips to Las Vegas:
    60

    My Trip Report

    A Tale of Two Trips

    July 15-23, 2015


    July 15 – Brody and Ann each managed to pack several bags full of belongings in our SUV while I was limited to one. Our first stop was Beaverbrook Animal Hospital where Brody had reserved his usual suite for 8 nights.

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    After a prolonged check-in process, Ann and I were headed north along route 84 through NW Connecticut eventually connecting to route 90 east, A.K.A. the Mass Pike. A few exits later we paid our first of several tolls as we exited to route 495 north.

    Since it was just past noon, we took the exit for Marlborough, MA and made the short journey to Linguini's Italian Eatery for lunch. I had read pizza by the slice was available so I was not expecting such a large restaurant with numerous cars parked outside. The modest interior was jammed with a line at the counter where the locals were ordering off a menu posted above the kitchen. We joined them and settled on 2 slices of cheese pizza and a 16-ounce diet coke that we shared.

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    The crust was thicker than New Haven style with a modest topping of cheese and a sauce that must have come directly from a can. After watching customer after customer pass by with large grinders filled with either chicken Parmesan or meatballs, we realized the folly of our ways. ($5.85, 2 Forks out of a possible 5)


    After connecting to route 95, we made another stop at a Maine visitors' center where we picked up a few brochures before continuing on. As we made our way north at a cruisin' speed approaching 70 mph, the almighty decided to amuse herself by opening up the heavens with cloud burst that challenged my vision for several minutes.

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    My navigator, who apparently had just completed a cat nap, directed me to take exit 60 not realizing that we were already on 95 and should be pulling off at exit 1. We ended up taking a more, shall we say, interesting route to the Fairfield Inn – Scarborough.

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    I was using Marriott points so our first night's lodging was on the house. At check-in we were told there would be manager's reception with rice and beans plus chicken this evening starting at 5PM, but it conflicted with our planned happy hour so we took a pass.


    The hotel seemed to have been updated a smidgen since our last stay or maybe our standards have regressed. We had requested an upper level room away from the elevator (singular) and were assigned room 308, a king, with a breathtaking view of the parking lot. Room amenities included a flat screen TV, a mini refrigerator, microwave and soap. ($0, 2.5 Sheets)


    After resting for an hour or so, we departed the hotel under crystal clear skies and headed for downtown Portland, taking exit 7 off route 95, and making our way to Boone's Fish House & Oyster Room where we were fortunate to find an open space in their small parking lot. The restaurant is located on the water and the patio was full so we bellied up to the bar.

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    On our first round we each ordered the house red wine that, though nameless, turned out to be pretty decent. I noticed a pair of platters had been set out on the oyster bar so I made up a small plate of salad and a few cold French fries. On the second round Ann again chose red wine while I ordered a pint of Shipyard pale ale, a local brew. ($13.34, 3 Sips)


    We decided to leave our car in the parking lot and walked to Olive Cafe, a small Lebanese restaurant, for dinner. Not feeling overly hungry we each settled on a shawarma, yaba (vegetarian) for Ann and chicken for her dining companion. These were wrapped in pita and served with French fries that we upgraded for $2 each to the recommended sweet potato fries. The shawarmas were pretty good, but the sweet potato fries were a ripoff, small in quantity, dried out and virtually uneatable.

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    ($28.29, 2.5 Forks)


    After walking along the waterfront on Commercial Street, we returned to the hotel thereby putting day one of our trip in the record books.


    July 16 – I spent the predawn hour on the hotel's computer before setting off for the Portland waterfront and Old Port.

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    On my return trip I discarded my mapquest directions in favor of winging it by taking the Casco Bay Bridge that turned out to be a short cut that I used later in the trip to avoid the downtown traffic.


    Breakfast was included so we opted for fresh fruit, yogurt, scrambled eggs and a few strips of bacon.

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    The first stop this morning was Mackworth Island where we leisurely followed a graded path that circumvented the island, stopping periodically for photos of fairy houses and the bay. We also encountered a local walking his dog who, the local, took the time to point out several islands in Casco Bay while providing a commentary on the history of each.

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    Our next stop on our way north was for lunch in Searsmont at the Olde Mill Diner where we each ordered a cup of cheese and potato soup topped with crumbled bacon. Pretty good, but the temperature could have been a bit hotter. ($10.62, 2.5 Spoons)

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    We arrived at the Highbrook Motel, our home for the next 3 nights, which is located approximately a mile from downtown Bar Harbor, at around 2:30PM and were assigned, per my request, room 12. We have stayed here in the past and our room was an end unit with a king-size bed. Though the motel is older, it has been meticulously maintained and as clean as clean could be. The owners' son proved to be a fountain of local knowledge.

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    In the late afternoon we headed to the harbor where we exchanged discounted vouchers for whale watch tickets for the following day. Happy hour was at the Side Street Cafe where we recognized the bartender from our previous visit 2 years ago. We ordered a pitcher of blueberry margaritas that were pretty good though almost devoid of any blueberry flavor. ($12, 3 Sips)

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    We had dinner reservations for Burning Tree in Otter Creek that is renowned for its seafood and vegetarian fare. A basket with 3 types of bread was delivered while we perused the menu. A shared appetizer of mussels grilled with spicy harissa and radicchio was ordered. A dish that proved to be delicious, but relatively pricey.

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    Ann's entree was pan seared monkfish with a sweet chili glaze accompanied by Thai style eggplant and a coconut sauce.

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    I chose a pan roast with chicken, chorizo, and clams that also included braised fennel, new red potatoes, garlic, leeks, kale, tomatoes and sherry pan juices.

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    Each entree included a mini salad of micro greens with yellow beets.

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    One of, if not the best, meal of our trip. ($97, 4.5 Forks)


    On exiting we took a short drive to Northeast Harbor before returning to our room.


    July 17 – I was out the door and behind the steering wheel at 5:45AM when I witnessed a Fox crossing the road before entering the woods immediately behind our unit. Since both the fox and sun were already up, I scratched plans to witness the sunrise from the top of Cadillac Mountain in Arcadia National Park (ANP) in favor of heading downtown. I deposited the car in the lot immediately behind Agamont Park and walked from the town pier along the coast line on the historic shore path that provided numerous photo opportunities before making my return via Main Street.

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    Prior to returning to the motel, I stopped in the Morning Glory Bakery for a pair of hazelnut and chocolate scones which we supplemented with OJ, yogurt and a banana from our motel's grab and go continental breakfast. The scones were okay, but lacked the “scone” flavor we enjoy.

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    After prepping for the day, we returned to the town pier, parked behind Agamont Park and again walked the shore path.

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    On our return via Main Street we found a bench and settled in for some serious people watching. I had a Restaurant.com certificate for Peekytoe Provisions with a game plan that included ordering takeout for us to enjoy while on the whale watch, but we decided our lump crab meat paninis with coleslaw sides would likely become too soggy so we dined in-house. The paninis tasted more like a grilled cheese than I would have expected. ($15.80, 2.5 Forks)

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    On our return to the car we grabbed our jackets and a bottle of water before getting in the long line for the Bar Harbor Whale Watch. The number of passengers was close to maximum due to a hoard of people on a shore excursion from Holland America's MS Maasadam that was anchored immediately off shore. We saw a number of pelagic birds, Mola Mola's (ocean sunfish), seals, dozing porpoises plus a total of 4 humpback whales on the trip. I took a number of photos, but none were particularly good. Here is a link to the ones taken by the staff photographer:

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10205566738466691&set=a.10205566732586544.1073742230.1199469989&type=1&theater


    One reason I probably would not choose this trip again is the fishing grounds where the whales dine are located 26-30 miles out to sea as compared to Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary situated a mere 5 miles east of Gloucester and 8 miles north of Provincetown.

    ($63, SeizeTheDeal, 2.5 Claps)


    On returning to the car I discovered the Bar Harbor police department had left a present for us under the windshield wiper.


    We had little time, but managed to return to the room to freshen up before heading off for happy hour at Sips in Southwest Harbor. The restaurant/bar was packed due to activities relating to the annual Flamingo Festival for the benefit of Harbor House Community Service Center. We each ordered a a pair of glasses of red wine that were better than average. ($20.38, 3 Sips)

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    For dinner we held reservations at the almost adjoining Red Sky. The restaurant was very nice with lots of local art work. Shortly after being seated we received our menus followed by an amuse bouche of smoked salmon mousse with crostini.

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    A basket of warm, crusty bread arrived shortly before our shared appetizer of crispy polenta with sauteed oyster mushrooms and Swiss chard finished with a balsamic reduction and Parmesan Reggiano.

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    For an entree, Ann chose seared sea scallops finished with an orange and Grand Mariner sauce that was accompanied by basmati rice with almonds and scallions.

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    My entree was a lasagna - house made pasta, acorn squash, sauteed kale and onion with a roasted tomato and pepper sauce plus a basil and almond pesto. The pasta was so light that it literally melted in my mouth. Service throughout was attentive without being overbearing.

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    ($75.80, 4 Forks)


    On exiting, we walked around Southwest Harbor before calling it a night.


    July 18 – it had rained overnight, the skies were gray and fog had settled in as I exited the room at 5:45AM. I drove the Park Loop Trail and took the turnoff for Cadillac Mountain, the highest point along the North Atlantic seaboard, but made a u-turn realizing the fog would render the view non existent.


    It was at this point that I realized there were 2 trips going on, ours and mine with the latter encompassing my daily activities between 5:30AM and around 7:30AM.

    I continued on to Northeast Harbor where I walked the grounds of the beautiful Asticou Gardens before returning to our room after picking up OJ, a banana and yogurt for breakfast.

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    We visited Hulls Cove Visitors Center and inquired about a pass and were advised that all we need to do was to leave our senior pass on the dashboard whenever we left the car.


    Several minutes later on arriving at entry point on the Park Loop road, a ranger informed us we had to display the pass at all times. Though there were intermittent showers, we parked at Sand Beach and walked most of the Ocean Path stopping to take photos and read the informational signs. Our turning point was Thunder Hole which was barely growling under a gentle surf.

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    We probably managed to walk 3.5 of the 4 mile round trip trail.


    On exiting the park we continued on to Northeast Harbor and visited Thuya Garden, an English style garden that was a riot of colorful flowers.

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    We than drove a portion of Sargent Drive that runs parallel to Somes Sound, arguably the only fjord found on the east coast, before returning to Bar Harbor for lunch. Seeking something light, we settled on Jalapenos Cantina and Mexican Grill where we ordered chicken tortilla soup. The soup was tasty, though it took me awhile before I discovered a single piece of chicken. ($12.80, 2.5 Forks)

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    In the late afternoon we returned to downtown Bar Harbor for a little window shopping before happy hour was celebrated on the second floor bar of Gailyn's. The bar area is impressive with rich, dark wood. I was surprised to find we were the only customers, though it began to fill up as the clock ticked down toward 6PM.

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    On our first round we ordered Maine Mojitos – Cold River gin, muddled mint, slice of orange, splash of club soda – color us happy.

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    Ann ordered a glass of Round Hill cabernet sauvignon just before happy hour ended while I chose a Maine Martini – blueberry vodka with a splash of blueberry syrup and a spoon full of wild blueberries. The drink proved to be a little too sweet for me. ($22.09, 3.5 Sips)

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    One amusing incident occurred shortly after happy hour ended when a woman sat next to us at the bar and asked for a discount on her wine spritzer since it was only partially filled with wine. Her presumed husband soon joined her and told the bartender he was a regular and wanted a drink at 2 for 1 pricing. The bartender diplomatically refused each request.


    We chose to have dinner in the downstairs dining room with Ann ordering Maine crab cakes with a sauce made of mayo, sour cream and Old Bay seasoning. I chose the Frenchman's Bay stew – a bouillabaisse of chopped tomatoes, garlic, onion, jumbo shrimp, salmon, scallops, haddock, lobster tail (tough), and mussels.

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    A house salad was included with each entree.

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    Ann thought the crab cakes were among the best ever while I thought mine was an insult to the people of Marseille. ($60.30, 4.5 Forks by Ann, 2.5 Forks by me).

    July 19 – rainy days and Sundays always get me down, especially while on vacation. I drove around ANP, but the rain and fog all but eliminated any distant views. On returning to the motel, I grabbed orange juice, a banana and some yogurt for our breakfast.


    The rain had stopped so after checking out of our room we drove to ANP and followed the Park Loop Road to the Precipice Trail parking lot where rangers had set up telescopes. Ann saw a peregrine falcon while I once again only saw rocks.


    Our next stop was Cadillac Mountain which was overrun with people so we did not linger for long.

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    On exiting the park on our way off Mount Desert Island, we stopped at Hot Dog Heaven for, drum roll, hot dogs and a soda.

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    While we were waiting for our order, a limo pulled up and the back seat passenger got out and ordered lobster rolls for both herself and the driver. Our hot dogs coulda/shoulda spent more time on the grill, but I was famished and would haven eaten a shoe if it was topped with onions, relish and mustard. ($6.37, 2 Forks)

    After passing through Ellsworth, we crossed the beautiful Penobscot Narrows Bridge stopping for a photo opportunity at a rest area.

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    We soon, did not seem so at the time, arrived at the Mount Battie Motel in Lincolnville where we were greeted by owners, Ed and Christine. Christine provided us with a handful of brochures and made a number of recommendations for both activities and dining. Our assigned room was #103, a queen fitted out with 2 upholstered chairs, a love seat, mini refrigerator, sampler wine/vinegar set courtesy of Fiore Artisan Olive Oils and Vinegars and a retro CRT television. The room was immaculately clean and more than served our purpose.

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    The skies cleared in the late afternoon in time for our excursion to 40 Paper for its nightly happy hour. The bar was packed so we ended up seated at the counter. For the first round I requested a mojito while Ann countered with a ginger cilantro margarita.

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    We also enjoyed a roasted beet with goat cheese flatbread that was as good as we remembered from 2 years prior.

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    On the second round the boss ordered Barone Fini pinot grigio while her driver went with a pesca (bourbon, fresh basil, lemon, brown sugar, peach bitters and a splash of seltzer). ($32.54, 4 Sips)

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    For dinner we had a table reserved at Fresh Restaurant so on exiting we made the short walk to Bay View Landing. Ann ordered lamb moussaka – crusted eggplant, San Marzano ragu, nigella bechamel and shaved feta. The skewered lamb was small in terms of both quality and quantity while the moussaka proved too rich for her.

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    I fared better with my moqueca – a Brazilian stew of haddock, salmon, mussels, clams, coconut milk, palm oil, lime, cherry tomatoes, cilantro and rice.

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    ($67.32, 3.5 Forks)


    July 20 – it had rained overnight and was still cloudy until around 7AM when the sky began to clear. I managed to kill a few hours locating and relocating places we planned on visiting during our stay.

    Camden Harbor

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    Our breakfast on the deck of the Mount Battie motel included OJ, a variety of muffins and other homemade baked goods.

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    Our first stop was the nearby Merryspring Gardens, a 66 acre private park and nature center where we planned on walking the trails, but found them to be overgrown.

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    We happened upon a volunteer who told us the arboretum was closed due to winter damage. The garden near the nature center was less than impressive so we cut our visit short and headed south to Camden. Our next stop was scenic Laite Memorial Beach where a number of school aged children were playing in the sand.

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    Next we visited Aldemere Farms, a 137-acre farm owned by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust, devoted to raising Belted Galloway cattle. We stopped at the visitor center where Ann met a farm employee who grew up in her hometown of Willimantic and was a childhood friend of her nephew and niece. Small world. We were fortunate to find the oreo cows grazing close to the road.

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    We continued on to the beautiful Vesper Hill Memorial Chapel with its formal gardens. It is a lovely spot for a wedding or just quiet contemplation.

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    We then connected to the scenic Beauchamp Point road that led us to Rockport Marine Park where we visited the statute of Andre the Seal.

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    Lunch was at the nearby Graffam Brothers seafood market where we ordered cups of haddock chowder that we enjoyed while seated outside on the picnic tables for their food truck. ($6.25, 2.5 Spoons)

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    We next visited Cellardoor Winery where we toured the impressive facility.

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    Jim, our bartender, provided a list of their wines available for tasting and told us to choose 4. He discussed each as he poured samples and eventually poured a 5th.

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    All but one of those sampled proved to be too fruity and not very complex so I was not tempted to purchase any of them. We did not leave empty handed though, purchasing a total of 4 small, but delicious chocolate truffles. ($3.17, 4 Forks and no sharing)

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    On our return to the motel an employee was just beginning to clean our room so we made the short drive to Lincolnville Beach and back.


    Once again, 40 Paper was the location of our happy hour. I started off with a Moscow mule while Ann went with a pesca.

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    We also enjoyed a pair of arancini that were delicious. On the 2nd round she went with a Calcu cabernet that was mediocre while he chose a tequito – a mojito using tequila.

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    ($34.50, 4 Sips)


    Dinner was at In Good Company located in Rockland. This small restaurant cum wine bar is one where we have enjoyed excellent meals several times in the past. Tonight we both chose baked halibut as our entree that came with kale, new potatoes, zucchini and carrots in a tarragon and butter sauce. ($62, 4.5 Forks)

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    July 21 – it was foggy as I exited our room just after dawn this morn. I drove to Cushing to see the Olson House, a 14-room Colonial farmhouse made famous by its depiction in Andrew Wyeth's painting, Christina's World. I noted that the house, now owned by the Farnsworth Art Museum, is currently closed for renovations that will continue throughout 2015.

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    After enjoying a light breakfast of baked goods at our motel, we spent the remainder of the morning window shopping in both Camden and Rockport. The highlight, for me, was another hot dog at Wasses which either was not as good as in the past or maybe I just wasn't that hungry. ($5.30, 2.5 Forks)

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    Next we visited Laugh Loud Smile Big on Route 90 where we picked up a pair of cupcakes, salted caramel and toasted coconut. These were shared later that evening with the best in category award going to the salted caramel.

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    Unfortunately, or was it fortunately, this bakery would not be reopening early enough for us to visit it again before leaving town tomorrow. ($5.30, 4 Forks)


    After a short siesta, we again found ourselves located at the bar in 40 Paper in time for happy hour.

    Ann's adult beverage this evening was a ginger cilantro margarita while I opted for another Moscow mule.

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    We also enjoyed a margherita flatbread with roasted tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and basil. Our 2nd round featured a glass of Chabiran Bordeaux that might have benefited by being decanted beforehand and a mojito. ($32.08, 4 Sips)

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    We then made the short walk to Long Grain where we had made reservations several weeks prior. Ann chose chiang mai curry noodles, aka kai soi, with chicken and I, the pad ke mao with chicken (stir fried wide noodles with basil, organic kale and mushrooms). We have had both dishes in the past and this year's did not disappoint though Ann felt hers was a bit too hot - sissy. ($32.08, 4 Forks)

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    In an almost embarrassing coincidence, this night's bar and dinner bills came out exactly equal. LOL


    July 22 – this morning's fog burned off by 6AM revealing crystal clear skies – high 5's all around. I spent the early morning walking the streets of Belfast.

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    Another light breakfast of baked goods at our motel before checking out and heading south. We drove to Bailey Island, an island in Casco Bay. Our first stop was to view the unique cribstone bridge that links Bailey Island to Orrs Island. The bridge is modeled after one in Scotland and uses locally mined granite cribs (blocks) that allow the tide to ebb and flow freely.

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    We then stopped at the Cooks Island View Motel, owned by Ann's cousin and her husband, where we were warmly greeted by the manager who then gave us a first class tour of the property.

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    Next we took the short, but scenic walk on the giant steps trail followed by a visit to Land's End Gift Shop.

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    On our way to Portland I zigged when I should have zagged and we ended up in downtown Brunswick, famous for being the home of Bowdoin College. Seeking a luncheon spot, Ann spotted Wild Oats Bakery & Cafe. The posted menu included a wide variety of sandwiches, salads, wraps and soups, but our decision was made after Ann pointed to the spinach and feta quiche sitting in the display case.

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    So good, I came close to licking my plate. ($10.80, 4.5 Forks)


    Check-in at the Fairfield Inn, Scarborough, went smoothly and we were soon situated in room 310, one door down from the room we occupied 7 nights prior.


    Happy Hour was at David's Restaurant, one of Portland's finer restaurants. Though the bar was empty on our arrival, it quickly filled after a group of business people arrived. Ann enjoyed a pair of Placido pinot grigios while my wine of choice was Hidden Crush cabernet sauvignon. We also enjoyed a bowl of PEI mussels cooked in a tarragon, white wine and butter sauce along with a few delicious garlic knots. ($40.51, 3.5 Sips)

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    Dinner was at Emilitsa, an upscale Greek restaurant. After being provided menus and ice water, we were presented with a delicious amuse bouche.

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    Ann's entree choice was free range chicken breast marinaded in olive, presumably Greek, oil and lemon, oregano and garlic that was skewered with onion and red pepper and served with spanakorizo (Greek rice) and tzatziki. I chose swordfish skewered with red onions, sweep peppers, and zucchini that was served with spanakorizo and skrothalia (a puree of potato and garlic).

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    Though souvlaki are generally considered Greek fast food, these were a taste delight. Service was also a cut above to the extent that the wait staff unskewered our food. This was a fitting conclusion to our foodcentric vacation. ($63.00, 4.5 Forks)


    July 23 – my early morning drive took me to Cape Elizabeth where I walked the grounds of Fort William Park and took numerous photos of the beautiful Portland Head Light though the sun's location in the sky proved problematic.

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    After breakfast of OJ, scrambled eggs and bacon, we checked-out, put the car in cruise control and headed off for the 3 hour drive to pick-up Brody. We made two stops, the first being for a coffee at Dunkin Donuts for Ann and a second to fill the tank with gas and empty our tanks. The latter stop ended up costing us 30 minutes because the entrance to the highway was temporarily closed due to construction, so we ended up winding our way in and around Worcester before finally locating an entrance to the Mass pike.


    Ann called ahead to Beaverbrook to announce our impending arrival though it did not seem to speed up the process much.


    Thus concludes our Maine vacation circa 2015.




    “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times”

    Charles Dickens – A Tale of Two Cities
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2015
  2. queuetee

    queuetee VIP Whale

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    I enjoyed your report---glad you mentioned that it was food centered. While I did enjoy the scenery---having been to most if not all those spots--- I really looked forward to the food pictures and descriptions Glad that you ate interesting things rather than lobster every night.
     
  3. bshowell

    bshowell VIP Whale

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    I always get so hungry viewing your reports. These pictures of the scenery are gorgeous. Thanks again for sharing.
     
  4. jagdan61

    jagdan61 Low-Roller

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    I used to live in Brunswick when I was in the Navy. Wish I could have suggested "Rapid Rays" hot dogs in Saco Maine to you. Saco is just South of Portland. Wife is from there, best Hot Dogs anywhere!! loved the pics!
     
  5. broncofn

    broncofn VIP Whale

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    Great report and beautiful pictures!!
     
  6. westie

    westie VIP Whale

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    Thank you - no skill involved, the scenery made it easy.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2015
  7. BlacklabberMike

    BlacklabberMike MIA

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    Great report!
    many people don't think of Maine as a dining destination, but there is a lot of good food up there......

    we go up for long weekends a few times a year,,,,,more years ago when i owned harness horses and we'd hit the Maine Fair circuit.

    ps. ever have a Flo's hot dog?
     
  8. westie

    westie VIP Whale

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    No, but it looks like it would be a great place for us to try if we are nearby at lunch time.
     
  9. NickPapageorgio

    NickPapageorgio OG of the Sal Sagev Hotel

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    That mindset has changed considerably. Portland, ME in particular is considered a major foodie destination. There are restaurants in Portland that will absolutely blow your mind. Places like Back Bay Grill, Street and Co, Opus Ten and my personal fave, Duckfat, are sublime. Whole Belly Clams downeast are the best in the country.

    Flo's are good dogs, but the mayo makes for an interesting flavor. I'll take a coney dog or sabrett any day.

    Nick:beer:
     
  10. bardolator

    bardolator Lifelong Low Roller

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    Great report, as usual, and timely for me because we are thinking of a Maine trip in the near future.

    Maine Martini? Sometimes one can take locally sourced comestibles one step too far!
     
  11. Dewey089

    Dewey089 VIP Whale

    Joined:
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    averill park ny
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    Great report.
    Too bad Maine had nothing to eat.
    My buddy, his wife and young son are up at Acadia as I write checking in for their week. I'm happy, however, I get to water their garden and pick a few tomatoes in this balmy summer weather.

    Nice report as always. Wish I were there.
     
  12. westie

    westie VIP Whale

    Joined:
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    Kensington, CT
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    --------Thanks Dewey. I am still looking for the first of the season tomatoes.
     
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