Help with a RO water shut-off valve

I'm a handy guy but I'm stumped. I have a shut-off valve to my RO (reverse osmosis) system and I can't budge it by hand. It won't go left or right and I tried push and pull to turn it-nothing. The damn thing is all plastic so before I take a pliers to it and break it, any suggestion on which way it should turn?

I gave up and finally just turned off the water main, but I'd like to get the valve operational for the next time I need to change out the filters.

 

I have a similar problem with the main inflow shutoff valve. A plumber advised me to not try to turn the valve as it was likely stuck by corrosion and I could damage it. Luckily I have another shut off valve outside the house I can use. Your problem may not be corrosion but something may have gotten into the line jamming up the valve. Replacement looks fairly easy if you can get the right valve.

 

You've got worm drive clamps on the water line, you could just replace that whole unit, probably just a few dollars.

 

looking at it from the bottom, 90 degrees to the right. (clockwise). At least that would be my first guess. Seems like every valve is off when turned clockwise. I'd turn off the main supply before turning that one off though. Better to be safe than flooded.

It's to bad the pex crimp tool is around $60, as I'd cut that valve off and get a pex crimp one instead of compression and replace it.

 

I agree with @jpw711, clockwise is the usual direction. If it is really ceased then the answer will be to cut it out and replace it. Having a set of PEX crimpers is a good buy in the long run. Very useful. If you don't want to buy them then Home Depot rents them for a few bucks. Or go with sharkbite fittings.

 

if the valve is parallel to the water line, the water is on. 90 degrees across the water is off.

if you can, a spay of wd-40 might help loosen it. then try a pliers ... if at worst it breaks, it looks to be an
easy switch out with a replacement unit.....

 

I like the sharkbite stuff, but they add up quick. Buy the crimp tool and a bag of 1/2" and 3/4" high quality crimps and you'll be set for a good long while. I say high quality as some of the cimps from the big box stores are a fraction larger in diamter and slide along the pipe to easy when trying to crimp.

There's nothing worse than a plastic valve imo.

 

@jpw711 absolutely correct with the price of the sharkbite. I do keep some on hand in my fifth wheel as I can make a quick fix when traveling with it.

For home, go with crimp and as you mentioned good quality kit.

 

It appears that the valve is screwed on to the upper half of the whole body. Can the lower half be taken off and looked at/cleaned out? It may solve replacing parts if so.

 

I was going to suggest a shot of WD-40 too. It's my go to fix and surprising how often it works for so many things. (When my kids bought their first homes, WD40 was part of my housewarming gift to them.)

 

Take a pair of water pump pliers and clamp them on the body just above the valve. (Will keep it from breaking) take a pair of pliers and put on the valve. If it is possible to turn you are in luck.

 

Let us know what you do Joe.

 

I can see the blank look on millennial's faces now.

 

I must admit i have never heard that name. I just assumed he was referring to Channel Lock Pliers??

 

I would agree with others, replace the whole valve with Sharkbite fittings. I had an outdoor shower that leaked due to cracked 1/2” PVC pipe and elbows caused by freezing. I cut off the PVC below the split and installed the Sharkbites along with some flexible white 1/2” pipe. Yes, they are a little pricey, but they are very easy to install.

 

The key to sharkbite is a very clean cut and ensure it is at the proper 90 angle. If there are any burrs of plastic they won't seal properly. If done properly they are just as reliable as crimps. I've used them lots of times in my fifth wheel and travel trailer. In that application given that the fifth wheel is constantly moving and the pipes shake constantly they haven't given me any trouble. With that said if you have PEX everywhere getting a crimper will be a once in a lifetime purchase.

 

I’m a piping guy by trade so here is my opinion. Most likely due to the orientation of the valve it has collected sediment and is preventing it from closing. This valve is a ball valve so it only moves 90 degrees. I would suggest to just replace it with a new one, but cut the crimps off the run of the tee, move the branch of the tee so it is pointing up and install new crimps. Oh, and “water pump” pliers are basically channel locks but the inside serrated part is curved instead of flat.

 

Well yes and no. They are simply adjustable to grip something larger than typical pliers. They do not “lock” as channel lock pliers do. You just grip them tight as you do with typical pliers.

 

My dad always referred to Channel Lock type pliers as water pump pliers. He said they were called that because they were so often used to hold the water pump shaft on many car engines while you removed the bolts holding the fan.

 

UPDATE: OK, so I got a pair of channel locks to hold the valve and a pair of pliers to turn the shutoff lever and it worked (turned towards the wall). Once I exercised it a few times, it turned freely using just my fingers.

Now in two years if we are still in this house, when I go to change the filters, I'll forget!