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Las Vegas, Off the Eaten Path

Discussion in 'Restaurants & Buffets' started by JB in MN, Aug 14, 2014.

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  1. JB in MN

    JB in MN Low-Roller

    Dec 27, 2011
    Normally when I'm in Vegas it's for such a short period that I only have time to hit the places on the Strip that I like/want to try, but now the list has expanded off strip for the next few trips...


    Las Vegas, Off the Eaten Path
    AUG. 12, 2014

    LAS VEGAS — Perched at the counter of Sweets Raku, a small, year-old dessert restaurant where almost everything is the gleaming white of a new iPhone charger, I chose a three-course tasting from a rice-paper menu printed in gold.

    Mio Ogasawara, the chef and a native of Japan, set a drum of coconut panna cotta in a wineglass, and surrounded it with buttons of mango mousse, balls of cantaloupe sorbet and bananas she had caramelized with a blowtorch. She covered the glass with something that looked like a coaster. Then, raising a pitcher that stood on little feet with red toenails, she poured hot mango syrup over the top. The sauce pooled and spread and was about to cascade over the edge when the coaster, made from white chocolate, melted away and dropped into the glass.

    At that point, I couldn’t remember all the ingredients in this sweet tropical magic trick, but it was too late to check the menu. I had dipped it in raspberry sauce and eaten it.

    Of all the surprises that made my meal at Sweets Raku so entertaining, perhaps the most interesting was its location: a shopping plaza about two miles from the Las Vegas Strip, in the sprawling and still-growing Chinatown area. It is one of many excellent, intimate restaurants that have sprung up in the last two or three years far from the leviathan casinos where celebrated chefs have made the city a global dining destination.

    In a recent week spent restaurant hopping around this city, I was drawn back by remarkable meals in Chinatown again and again. I was well fed downtown, too, where little independent restaurants and cloistered cocktail lounges are helping that historic area climb back from years of decay.

    Every day, I would leave my hotel in the City Center complex for some other part of town, eat a couple of lunches followed by a dinner or two, then return to my hotel bed. I believe this makes me the first person in history who went to the Las Vegas Strip to sleep.

    When I did hike along the mountain range of glass towers, pyramids, Roman arcades and Manhattan skyscrapers on Las Vegas Boulevard, I kept seeing famous chefs used as advertisements for no-holds-barred indulgence. Giant photographs of Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller hang from the Doge’s Palace at the Venetian. At the Paris, a huge scrim superimposes the Arc de Triomphe with the scowling face and crossed arms of Gordon Ramsay. Seeing Europe’s great monuments repurposed as billboards was almost enough to make me wonder why we fought World War II.

    For a taste of food that wasn’t advertising anything other than itself, I veered off the Strip. The distinctive, original new restaurants there tended not to be ones imported from far away but ones grown here in the desert. They were built by and feed the year-round residents whose numbers have been climbing at a healthy clip since the housing-market crisis. The population of Clark County, which includes Las Vegas, grew by nearly 4 percent from 2010 to 2013, and now stands at more than two million, according to the latest Census Bureau estimates. Many of those new arrivals come from Mexico, as evidenced by the tiny taquerias sprouting up around the city, and from a host of Asian countries.

    To get to Sweets Raku, I had driven past block after block of strip-mall restaurants: Hong Kong-style seafood houses, Filipino family restaurants, Korean barbecue grills and Vietnamese sandwich shops. Then there were the Japanese places: izakayas, sake bars, ramenyas, curry and tonkatsu specialists.

    Sweets Raku occupies a space on Spring Mountain Road, Chinatown’s main drag, in a mall called Seoul Plaza. The name is as imprecise as Chinatown’s. Seoul Plaza has become a one-stop-shopping destination for excellent Japanese food since 2008, when the chef Mitsuo Endo, who also owns Sweets Raku, opened Aburiya Raku, an exquisite yakitori grill. Aburiya Raku has won a measure of national recognition, but I knew it deserved even more with my first bite of Mr. Endo’s oyaji tofu, as rich and fluffy as ricotta, served with a sauce of dried chiles and fried garlic so good I ate it with a spoon. Everything that passed over Mr. Endo’s glazing-hot charcoal was seasoned and cooked with spooky precision, from flaky white yellowtail belly to the tender kurobuta pork cheek that made me think all the pork-belly worshipers are eating the wrong end of the pig.

    In 2012, a friend of Mr. Endo’s opened Kabuto, a traditional Edo-style sushi bar across the plaza. This spring, he handed the chef’s position over to Ken Hosoki, who was carving delicate sheets of rarely seen species like hairtail when I arrived while another chef rubbed a wasabi root on sharkskin. I wasn’t thrilled with the overcooked omelet or the menu format, which forced me to take some lackluster grilled items I didn’t want to get the sashimi that I did. But the sashimi turned out to be exceptional, skillfully chosen to bring out contrasts in texture and fat, and the nigiri was very good as well. My grudge against the menu softened with the last course, a sorbet made from the citrus called sudachi by Sweets Raku.

    In 2012, Kabuto, a traditional Edo-style sushi bar, opened. Credit Ronda Churchill for The New York Times
    For years, the one restaurant that justified a taxi ride away from the Strip for many visitors was Lotus of Siam, specializing in northern Thai cuisine. Two years ago, a manager and sommelier from Lotus of Siam named Bank Atcharawan struck out on his own to open Chada Thai & Wine. He placed it in another Chinatown plaza that he shares with one of the few North American restaurants serving the lamb-centric cuisine of China’s Shaanxi Province. Chada’s menu is shorter than Lotus’s, the portions more dainty, but the cooking struck me as more exact and polished after one meal at each.

    The flavors at Chada tilt toward southern Thailand, as in the stunningly fine coconut-based crab curry served with nests of rice vermicelli. Quail eggs fried into little bull’s-eyes were topped with dried shrimp and set in a superbly focused lime-chile dressing. A tamarind-chile dipping sauce that hit every flavor on the grid at once was sensational with chewy oddments of pork called lo-ba in Phuket. Has anyone in Phuket ever chased pigs’ ears with Eric Bordelet’s sparkling pear cider from Normandy? Mr. Atcharawan has priced the wine list to encourage experiments like that, with many bottles around $40.

    Like Raku, Chada stays open until 3 a.m., the better to ensnare cooks and servers on their way home from the Strip. Workers in the celebrity-chef restaurants, whether they stay for a year or decide to settle down, help many off-Strip restaurants stay in business. Sometimes they do more than that. In June, the chef Kerry Simon opened Carson Kitchen in the John E. Carson Hotel, a former flophouse downtown.

    Mr. Simon runs restaurants in casinos on and off the Strip, but Carson Kitchen has a personal point of view that’s hard to find in dining rooms located within sight of the slot machines. On a chef’s counter facing the kitchen, a glass urn labeled “Swear Jar” is quickly filling up with dollar bills. It’s hard to imagine a swear jar on the Strip, where nothing is supposed to get in the way of the implicit message that everything is permitted.

    Mr. Simon, who recently learned that he has a severe form of Parkinson’s disease, installed Matt Andrews as executive chef. The menu of small plates is antic and border-crossing in a way that could be awful or great. It turns out to be mostly great. A vertical caprese salad deserved sweeter tomatoes, but the gyro tacos were fantastic, with grilled pita instead of a tortilla, holding spiced lamb that spills juice as you eat it. Veal meatballs in a rich, camel-colored sauce of foie gras and sherry played the high-low comfort food game as well as any dish I’ve come across.

    The John E. Carson Hotel might have joined the vast graveyard of boarded-up hotels on and around Fremont Street if not for the Downtown Project. A $350 million effort to bring back the city’s original core without demolishing it — Las Vegas’s usual solution to aging buildings — the Downtown Project bought the hotel in 2012 and rents commercial space for $2 a square foot.

    One block from the resurrected hotel is Eat, another child of the Downtown Project. If I were staying nearby, I’d start every day with Eat’s biscuits in strawberry sauce, an ingenious way to turn breakfast into dessert, and come back at lunch for corned beef hash, the real article, chopped by hand, a treat any time you can find it. And I would escape the afternoon sun on Fremont Street for a bottle of Beerlao Dark at Le Thai, a tiny room outfitted like a Bangkok pub. Le Thai, open since 2011, won’t expand anyone’s notions of Thailand’s cuisine the way Chada or Lotus of Siam can, but among more routine stuff, I came across two finds worth seeking out: the deep-fried chunks of pork jerky, to be picked up with a wad of sticky rice and swabbed in spicy nam prik, and the woozily rich fried rice with bits of sweet and full-flavored short rib.

    More out-of-towners have been finding their way downtown lately, and places like Carson Kitchen should help. Far fewer make it to Summerlin, in the city’s west end, an area rich in chain restaurants. That’s why I was interested in Honey Salt. It opened there two years ago, owned by Kim Canteenwalla, a chef who has worked on and off the Strip, and his wife, Elizabeth Blau, a consultant who helped lure Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Michael Mina and many other chefs to the Strip. She and Mr. Canteenwalla were key figures in making Las Vegas a stop on the food-tourism route, and I wanted to see how they were treating the locals.

    Very well, it turned out. Honey Salt doesn’t have pirate ship battles or indoor roller coasters. It’s just a restaurant, with paintings by Ms. Blau’s sister and cooking that’s seasonal, up-to-date and refreshingly free of drama, like the summer salad of greens with honey-roasted peaches and the appetizer of fried squid and tender soft-shell clams with shishito peppers. If you’re lucky, you have a place like this in your neighborhood. Honey Salt doesn’t try to compete with the casino restaurants, but as a downstream effect of the Strip’s high-end scene, it’s an emblem of where the rest of Las Vegas is moving these days.


    Sweets Raku, 5040 West Spring Mountain Road, No. 3, 702-290-7181.

    Kabuto, 5040 West Spring Mountain Road, No. 4, 702-676-1044, kabutolv.com.

    Chada Thai & Wine, 3400 South Jones Boulevard, 702-641-1345, chadavegas.com.


    Carson Kitchen, 124 South Sixth Street, 702-473-9523, carsonkitchen.com.

    Eat, 707 Carson Avenue, 702-534-1515, eatdtlv.com.

    Le Thai, 523 Fremont Street, 702-778-0888, lethaivegas.com.


    Honey Salt, 1031 South Rampart Boulevard, 702-445-6100, honeysalt.com.
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