The Anchor Bar in downtown Buffalo will soon open at another location, somewhere on the strip. Palms will welcome a new Hooters in July. I'm always impressed that this simple culinary creation, the chicken wing, has spread so far and wide. It started when I had just graduated high school, but I did not feel the impact of the trend until I came home on leave from the Air Force and my mother was laughing about the newest food fad. I've had the wings at the Anchor, and once I sent a tee shirt to a friend in Heredia, Costa Rica, who loved the food. I"ve seen many versions of the story of the original chicken wings, but I guess I trust this one from the obituary: TERESSA BELLISSIMO, INVENTOR OF SPICY BUFFALO WINGS, DIES By SARA RIMER Published: November 6, 1985 Teressa Bellissimo, who invented the Buffalo-style chicken wings that won international culinary respect and fame for her hometown, died Monday. She was 84 years old. Mrs. Bellissimo died in her apartment above Frank and Teressa's Anchor Bar and Restaurant on Main Street, which she and her late husband, Frank, opened in 1940. It was there, according to Mrs. Bellissimo's son, Dominic, that the Buffalo chicken wing was born, shortly before midnight one Friday in 1964. ''The true story is that I was tending bar, and a bunch of my friends were drinking,'' Mr. Bellissimo, who now operates the restaurant, said yesterday. ''My mother, God rest her soul, was in the kitchen. I said to my father, 'Let's have some hors d'oeuvres.' Dad said: 'They're all Catholic boys. They don't eat meat on Friday.' '' 'Come Up With Something Dominic reminded his father that it would soon be Saturday. And, he recalled, ''Dad told mother to come up with something.'' Mrs. Bellissimo took some chicken wings, deep-fried them, doused them with hot sauce and served them with blue-cheese dressing and celery. The men at the bar were rapturous. ''They said, 'Oh, my God, can we come back next Saturday and have the same thing?' '' Mr. Bellissimo said. Mrs. Bellissimo had no way of knowing that she would soon become widely acclaimed as the Chicken Wing Lady. ''I don't think it was the greatest moment of her life at that time,'' Mr. Bellissimo said. ''But a few years down the road she walked tall - when Buffalo-style wings were being served all over the country.'' Now Four Styles The wings come in four styles -mild, medium, hot and, Dominic's addition, suicidal. Everyone from Walter Mondale to Calvin Trillin has eaten them. And every July 29 since 1977 has been proclaimed Chicken Wing Day in Buffalo. While Mrs. Bellissimo was famous for her chicken wings, she was also admired for such dishes as squid marinara and veal scaloppine. ''My mother was a pure genius,'' Mr. Bellissimo said. ''She could take a potato, a carrot, some peas, maybe a little onion sauteed, a little olive oil, throw in some little round meatballs and make you a meatball stew that would be the greatest.'' In addition to her son, Dominic, Mrs. Bellissimo is survived by two granddaughters, Donna Bellissimo, and Teressa Lerner. Funeral services will be held at 10 A.M. today at Our Lady of Lourdes Roman Catholic Church on Main Street.